Yesterday I introduced the 3 most-common modes of metering in digital photography. Today is a continuation of yesterday’s post.
Today I want to talk about the pros and cons of each.
Matrix / Evaluative: the camera does all the decision-making for you. It’s like “auto” for metering. This is both the pro and the con. It makes all the decisions for you, but because it’s an algorithm if you have a challenging lighting situation, it may disappoint you. The sum of the light across the image may not be the best for a certain part of your image.
Center-weighted: uses the middle focal point to measure a small portion of the photo. This will allow you to choose a specific part of your image to meter… say, a child sitting in open shade instead of the bright, midday sky behind her. The con, is that once you meter, you’ll need to move your composition and then focus. It’s an extra step, but more specific than matrix.
Spot-metering: This is the most specific, targeted area of metering light but it requires that you know and understand the Zone System. You can both meter and focus at the same time… perfect for working fast, and when your subject isn’t in the middle of your image. Once you know how to adjust your in-camera meter + or – depending on the part of the image you’re metering, you can accomplish this in seconds.
The Zone System:
I use spot metering 99% of the time. I don’t want my camera to decide for me, and I want total control over which part of my image I am judging the best exposure. Since I am a portrait photographer, nearly all my photos are of people. I don’t want my images exposed for the sum of the image, I want my image exposed for what’s most flattering and beautiful across my subjects’ faces.
I typically meter off the best-lit cheek… and set the in-camera tick marks on my meter to reflect which zone their skin tone falls under. I’m not going to write about the Zone System but I have resources for you to check out! Learn about it directly from the source:
Or read more about it online at Wikipedia and Photo Tuts+. << fabulous!
Above shows how I change my camera’s meter mode. Unfortunately, it differs from brand to brand and even model to model. In many cameras, it will be an option in your menu. Now is a good time to pull out your trusty camera manual. Try the same shot across all modes, and in several lighting situations so you can judge for yourself which is best for you – and be able to toggle between them when needed.
Additional reading about metering:
Canon, Changing the Meter Mode
Exploring Metering Modes
Which metering mode do you use? Why?
I use spot a big majority of the time. I love portrait photography my son unfortuantely does not… The rest of the time is just play time so I don’t think about it and just leave it on spot. I guess it has been working okay for me! I really should shoot more adventurously…
I use spot a big majority of the time. I love portrait photography my son unfortuantely does not… The rest of the time is just play time so I don’t think about it and just leave it on spot. I guess it has been working okay for me! I really should shoot more adventurously…
Recently, I find myself using spot metering more. Now I need to learn more about the zone system – thanks for the great tips!
Thanks for explaining metering. I love reading your tips they are so easy to read and the pictures and examples keep me awake, something my manual can’t do. =) I think my metering has always been left on auto because i wasn’t sure what to do with it. I take a lot of basketball pictures. What is your opinion on what metering would be best?
Since basketball is indoors usually – the lighting situation will probably be fairly even, likely fluorescent gym lights. I would set my custom white balance, or toggle over to fluorescent on your choices so you color doesn’t turn out funky. Using matrix metering in this case would probably be perfectly fine, since there won’t be areas that greatly differ from each other.
I don’t always take the time to read others comments but I am glad I did today, my son plays basketball, and I cannot get a good pic of him playing to save my life, I will try out your advise. thanks
With any sports – the key to fast motion is SPEED. Shoot fast – like 1/800s or faster if possible.
I’ve learned this year to always take shots during warm ups. This helps me get my ISO, speed and aperture all set before the real action starts. Thanks to Darcy, I now understand how to set my white balance and know to leave my meter on matrix. So I can’t wait until the season starts!
Last year, I bought a 18mm-200mm 3.5-5.6 VR lens which was a great improvement over my kit lens. But I’m now drooling over 2 different lenses. 85mm 1.4 or a 80-200 2.8. Not sure which one will serve my needs better. I think I may rent both and see which one I like better.
I am so excited that you are hosting the 31 days again. I read your blog everyday last year and learned so many things! Can’t wait for the rest of the month. Today i learned that center metering is only in the center (duh) i guess i thought it was more like spot. Thanks so much i will go and change this now!!
I love these times when you learn something and it ‘clicks’-and I somehow feel this one thing will revolutionize my photography–I know-sounds pretty dramatic-but metering is one of those things I keep meaning to study and learn-I think I am ready to turn a corner on this one!! Thank you so much–I think I understand the zone because of working in Photoshop, actually–I visualize the histogram and lay the zones in my head that way–I hope I dont have them mixed up backwards:). I can’t wait to practice–
You are the best. Ever. I have passed your blog on to all those within hearing distance(in my defence; the woman on the train looked like she could be a camera junkie!) As an engineer I love your simple and elegant descriptions. Thank you for sharing and inspiring!
hi, how do you write and draw on your pictures? Also how do you put 4 pictures in one? Thanks
It all makes sense for the most part. I am just having trouble understanding why you must know the zone system for spot metering. I just grabbed my camera and it’s set to spot meter, but I can’t see any place to adjust what zone it is in? I must be missing something lol.
There isn’t a setting on the camera – you just learn the system and compensate for it mentally.
It’s the photographer who makes the mental adjustments, by stopping up or down. The camera can’t know or adjust for it.
You can – if you know you will be metering off a certain zone for a whole shoot – use exposure compensation. But that’s not necessary. It’s just as easy, for example, to know that pale Caucasian skin is 1.5-2 + and to shoot a stop or two fast than your meter reads.
Hope this helps!
I’m still trying to figure out how to shoot manually (I tend to over think things! LOL). You said you meter off the best lit cheek and then set the tick marks to which zone their skin is in. Here is my rephrasing it, just to make sure I understand:
Fill the viewfinder with the best lit cheek and set your ISO, shutter speed, and aperture to show the in camera meter to reflect which zone you need. Leave your camera set to spot meter and continue to meter off your subject.
Is this correct? Thank you so much! LOVE this series
I think so. I can’t always tell by words alone… but basically, once you expose the shot for the skin, don’t change the exposure once you back up and compose the image. esp if the meter is reading more than just that area – the tick marks may move and you shouldn’t need to change the exposure unless/until the light changes.
hope that helps.
Thank you!!! That helps A LOT
It took me a year to “ignore” the tick marks on the meter. As long as the light falling on the subject isn’t changing, you shouldn’t need to adjust your settings. I spent so much time readjusting my settings so that the tick mark would always stay in the same place, that I just got frustrated and gave up on shooting in manual mode. Now I know better 
Unless the tick mark consistently reads over or under exposed, then you may need to readjust because the lighting has changed. Another thing that took me forever to realize is, with my Canon T2i the spot metering is located in the center circle. You can’t adjust it to be on the focal point you are using. So I would spend a lot of time filling my viewfinder with whatever I was metering off of and using the AE lock, then stepping back and composing the shot. Pretty much impossible to spend all that time when photographing kids as they are running around. Now I do as you described by setting my camera up in manual and firing away 
I think I might finally have the hang of it…I just gotta keep practicing! Thank you so much!!!